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What's In a Name? For The Jerusalem Artichoke: Nothing
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What's In a Name? For The Jerusalem Artichoke: Nothing
January 2, 2017
What's In a Name? For The Jerusalem Artichoke: Nothing
Also called sunroots, earth apples and sunchokes, Jerusalem artichokes are neither artichokes or from Jerusalem. The mysterious origin of their name is almost as perplexing as the way their popularity in the culinary world has convinced traditional farms like ours to rethink the way we feel about the Jerusalem artichoke.
This
tuber
with its tawny skin and white interior that becomes creamy when cooked is actually a member of the sunflower family with its origins in North America and Canada. Its nubby appearance and the way it grows below ground is probably the reason it's sometimes referred to as the Canadian truffle. But for years on our farm we saw it as nothing but a nuisance.
We've sold
Jerusalem artichokes
for over a decade now but we can't quite shake how back in the forties you could even be penalized for not clearing them from your farm. They were considered an invasive weed and if you didn't eradicate them a fine was sure to follow. We had such strong preconceived notions about it that we were sure chefs would reject them like farmers had done for decades in this country.
It was the
James Beard winning chef Bradford Thompson
who upended the way we thought about Jerusalem artichokes forever. The chef was on the farm for an event at The Culinary Vegetable Institute and the next morning we found him in the kitchen preparing breakfast from the leftovers the evening before. These breakfasts are always incredible and we sometimes think that our event guests should stick around until the next morning for what is always an unforgettable meal. We thought this would be no different until we saw chef Thompson slicing up the Jerusalem artichokes he had boiled until soft the night before. Farmers love their home-fries, eggs and bacon but when we heard the sound of Jerusalem artichokes sizzling in the pan we nearly turned and ran out the door.
Chef Thompson convinced us to stay and give his twist on home-fries a try. It was a revelation. They were creamy and sweet with a hint of vanilla and an addictive crispy-crunchy texture. They were as good as or even better than home-fry potatoes would be an in an instant, the way we felt about Jerusalem artichokes changed forever.
Chefs love them for their versatility and we've seen them celebrated in both savory and sweet recipes. From ice cream and dessert garnishes that are candied and dehydrated to velvety purees and savory tarts combined with wild mushrooms and tart green apples, the Jerusalem artichoke is at home in countless dishes. It pairs so well with heady game flavors as well as delicate poultry and fish dishes. It's also wonderful in soups and makes a delicate broth that is delicious on its own or as a foundation for sauces.
In Germany and other parts of Europe its even used as a basis for brandy and other cordials. Lamb is another successful pairing as are beets and other root vegetables. They're incredible when roasted but we are still partial to the good ole home-fry to start the morning right.
Their delicate sweet flavor is similar to an artichoke and is the reason this tuber received half its name. It was the French explorer Samuel de Champlain who first noticed their similarity to artichokes and sent the root vegetable back to his home country noting the parallel.
The origin of the word Jerusalem in the name is a little trickier to identify. There are two explanations that make the most sense. Since the Jerusalem artichoke is a member of the sunflower family and the flower that emerges from the tuber looks very similar, Italian immigrants began referring to is as "girasole" which is the Italian word for sunflower. It's possible that this word was then corrupted to Jerusalem over the decades.
Another explanation is that the Puritans called this tuber that was new to them in America the root vegetable of the "New Jerusalem" which is what they sometimes referred to America as since they were motivated to create a second paradise when they arrived.
Whatever the origin of the name, it was Native Americans who first cultivated and cooked with the Jerusalem artichoke, even using it to trade with which is why it is now planted in several regions throughout North America. Early European explorers sent it back to Europe after they tasted it and it soon flourished throughout most of the continent too.
There's so much to love about the Jerusalem artichoke, even more so for the diabetic. The tuber is high in inulin which converts to fructose instead of glucose when it's stored for any length of time. Fructose is a healthier choice for the diabetic than sucrose, making it a better option than potatoes.
When we think back to the 1940s and the fines imposed for growing the Jerusalem artichokes we are amazed at how far this sweet tuber with its creamy texture and versatility has come over the decades.
It's found its way into the most sophisticated dishes prepared by the world's most notable chefs but we still have a fondness for it in home-fries and are grateful, as we are so often at The Chef's Garden, for the chef who opened our eyes to the possibilities.
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Chef Bradford Thompson,
Jerusalem Artichokes,
Sunchokes,
Sunroot
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