To answer that question at Roots 2023: Regenerate, we turned to Chef David Kinch. In 2016, his restaurant, Manresa, received three Michelin stars—and, in September 2023, he shared his experiences with fine dining and his insights about sustainability at our Roots conference.
First, here’s some background on Chef David. Growing up, his family moved frequently but settled in New Orleans where he worked in a restaurant after school. In this vibrant and lively town, David noted how the pleasures of the table were ingrained into people’s daily lives—not by chasing trends but by truly weaving enjoyment of meals into the fabric of the day. At lunch, for example, people might already be anticipating what they’d have for dinner.
David embraced this attitude, finding that he loved to cook and that working with his hands felt therapeutic. He discovered that he wasn’t interested in feeding large groups of people, though, preferring to focus on the quality inherent in fine dining. His favorite thing in life was and is to anticipate going to a great restaurant for the first time and then enjoying the food, wine, and great conversation that unfolds.
After working in the culinary industry in New Orleans, he traveled to New York City and to Europe, broadening his exposure to outstanding restaurants.. Through these experiences, he learned that the quality of ingredients is the most important aspect of a first-rate dish. You can’t, for example, take mediocre ingredients and create a great dish, and the best way to improve a recipe is to buy better ingredients.
After his travels, David ended up living in California, appreciating the quality of ingredients he could find. He operated a bistro for seven years and then spent twenty years at Manresa. David had formed a life changing partnership with a woman who grew ingredients exclusively for his restaurant, giving him control over them, which he believes was a sign of respect to the diners.
What is Sustainability?
It’s hard to become sustainable when you can’t yet define the term, and many myths exist about it—such as a localism idea that states you should buy a product from fifty to one hundred miles from your location. If the quality isn’t good, though, how does that move the restaurant forward?
What’s important is to, instead, focus on seasonality. When you buy in season, the product is the best it can be, and it’s cheapest during its natural growing season. Then, you fill in the gaps in responsible ways. Said another way, seasonality is stepping closer to sustainability.
Evolution of Fine Dining
In the sixties, seventies, and eighties, fine dining was an elitist activity. People would eat rich food on special occasions—the kind of food you might only eat every couple of weeks. Some time around 1995, though, a democratization of fine dining took place. The quality of food remained fantastic and meals became more accessible, but only the food mattered. Chairs were likely to be uncomfortable and loud music blared. More recently, diners began wanting comfy chairs and space between tables in an environment where conversation could occur. They already knew about food and wine, they understood the concepts of seasonality—and, for a period of time, elitism largely left fine dining.
Because of the pandemic, though, income disparity became larger and elitism is coming back. Many times, the fine dining experience is now based on exclusivity—about who can’t get in. There are venues where one to two dozen people can get into an establishment after a six-month wait and then pay $900 apiece for a meal.
David believes that the fine dining environment is an idea factory where experimentation can trickle into the mainstream. He believes that a great restaurant is the passion of a single person rather than one where ideas are created by committee. It’s also one with a true sense of place. Many good restaurants could be located in just about any city whereas great ones surround you with the ambiance of where you are.
Returning to the Concept of Sustainability
David shared numerous thoughts about what sustainability truly means, including that it involves actions that meet the needs of the present without harming future generations’ ability to meet theirs. It involves complexities, hard choices, and the necessity of change, being financed in a sustainable manner. You then need to get your target audience’s attention to share how you’re focusing on environmental and social change.
To measure sustainability, pick an area and make it your mission to do what you can in a right-sized amount. Make meaningful changes, fix it when you fall short, and tell your story. Inspire your staff to be part of your sustainability efforts, and go from platitudes to genuine operational effectiveness. Stay clear of greenwashing.
In sum, sustainability in the restaurant world involves the provision of flavorful food that’s healthy and economically viable to offer. It involves respecting farmers, workers, and animals as the restaurant nourishes the community—and of replenishing shared resources for future generations in a fiscally responsible manner. And, remember. Share your story!